It Takes Time But It’s Worth It

In a society that expects immediate results, even if it means perverting the nature of a living entity to try to fit an arbitrary aesthetic ideal, restoring natural fertility to soil can seem to be a futile exercise. Plants don’t necessarily respond immediately to soil improvements. Sometimes, the results can be so subtle, it’s hard to even notice progress. However, for anyone willing to give the time required and pay attention, the results are not only obvious, but substantial and long lasting. I had an experience recently that outlines the benefits of taking the long term approach.

About a year ago, I got a call from a woman, who by good fortune, became a client. She had a yard that was primarily landscaped with California Native plants, but not all the plants were doing that well. She had made her own commitment to landscape without chemicals, found me and asked for help. We worked out a program of soil improvement to help bring her plants back to health. The client’s yard is outlined in the Native Plant Garden project in the Project section of the Mauby All Natural main web site. Specifically, this article is about the trees in this landscape.

There are two native oak trees in the landscape. One of these oaks, the ‘back’ oak, was saved from being cut down at a development site. It was dug up and installed in my client’s landscape. The ‘front’ oak was a container plant brought in from a nursery. On my first visit, the homeowner had just hired a tree care company to perform a root injection feeding. The fertilization program was to consist of quarterly injections of soluble fertilizers and the first feeding had just been performed.

After the injection fertilization, the front tree responded well, greened up and leafed out nicely. The back tree, did not respond well. The program I created for the trees, did not include fertilizer. I needed to improve the root systems of the trees. I’ll always be grateful to the homeowner because when the fertilizer wore off, the trees dropped many of their leaves, but she kept the faith. One of the main things I needed to do was get mycorrhizae reestablished in the root zone. I dug some narrow trenches radiating out from the trunk of the trees to the drip line. I filled these trenches with compost that had been inoculated with mycorrhizal spores collected from under trees of the same species. After inoculating, a 3″ mulch layer was added under the trees.

I monitored the trees over the next few months. The lack of rain over the winter hindered the colonization of the mycorrhizae. The trees needed to be irrigated throughout the spring to ensure there was sufficient water. There was progress I could see while monitoring the soil, but the trees were still looking a bit sad. The homeowner actually made the decision to remove the back oak because it did not appear to be responding.

During a recent visit, I was surprised to see the back oak was still in place. It was looking good too. Better than it ever had. When talking to the homeowner, she told me they noticed such a positive response over the spring months, they decided to keep it. I have to say, even I was surprised at the tremendous difference in the appearance of the tree. It’s a good feeling to see such a majestic plant respond so well and head on the road to recovery. There’s still more work to be done, but this is now one happy tree.

How Deep Do Roots Go?

This is a question that comes up often. How deep do plant roots go? I’ve heard many different answers. Some say, roots go down 6-12 inches then start growing out sideways and that’s how deep roots go. I’ve heard specific root depths for different plants. I’ve been told some grasses only send roots down 3-6″. In my practice, I’ve observed a different result.

One of the main problems I’ve had to fix in my practice is compaction. There is some consistency to the depth of compaction. It happens at the depth of the tines on a typical rototiller. Repeated tilling causes major problems to soil structure. Also, the heating caused by the friction of the tines causes the soil at the tine depth to form a glaze that repels water. This glazed soil becomes severely compacted. A typical rototiller has tines that dig approximately 6 inches into the soil. This creates a compaction layer at roughly 6 inches below the surface. Most plant roots can’t get through this compaction layer. There are also byproducts created by anaerobic microorganisms in the compaction layer that injure plant roots.

But how deep do plant roots go? Basically, plant roots will go as deep as soil conditions will allow. Roots need water and oxygen. Compaction prevents both water and oxygen from penetrating into soil. That’s why roots start growing sideways at a particular depth. The compaction prevents them from growing down further.

I had an example recently in my plot at the Community Garden. This is a brand new community garden. The soil is not in particularly good condition. I decided the plants I’d grow the first year would be soil building plants. Some legumes for nitrogen fixation and some with strong roots to help open up the soil at depth. My bed in the garden is a raised bed up about 30 inches off the ground. The legume I planted to open the soil is alfalfa. I’ve included some pictures of a plant I pulled recently to see how long the roots had grown in about 4 months. Keep in mind, this soil is marginal to poor and is still pretty compacted.

30" alfalfa roots photographed next to digging tool.

30" alfalfa roots photographed next to digging tool.

Alfalfa roots photographed next to raised bed.

Alfalfa roots photographed next to raised bed.

So, how deep do roots go? As deep as conditions will allow for any particular plant, but it’s probably deeper than you think.