Erosion Control Using Compost

We’re starting a new project with the City of San Jose. The project is slope stabilization and erosion control using compost. There will be different techniques used depending on the site characteristics. I was out last week looking for possible demonstration sites. The most likely candidate site is the Newby Island Landfill. There are plenty of slopes that need to be stabilized.

The first stage of this project will be a demonstration since we’re so close to the rains. As the project progresses, it will become a research project, measuring silt and runoff reduction. This project will be used as a reference for construction projects where hillsides need to be stabilized and replanted and where storm drains and waterways need to be protected.

I’ll be posting updates to this project as it progresses. I’m still evaluating demonstration sites in San Jose, so if you know of a slope with erosion concerns, or storm drains that need protecting, leave a comment with the location.

Is This March or November?

I was in the Heritage Rose Garden in San Jose recently. I’ve been working a project there to improve the soil conditions for a few years now, and I was doing some follow up work. I stepped out of my truck and I was stunned by the blooms. It felt like I was teleported to mid March. The number of flowers and the array of colors were there at the wrong time of year. The fragrance was pretty amazing too. I noticed some roses I don’t think I’d ever seen before. (Not that difficult since there are more than 3,400 different rose varieties in the Heritage.) I haven’t seen a November like this ever. I recommend getting out and smelling the roses before winter comes. But then, they’ll be back come March.

Here I’ll offer another ‘Thank You’ to the volunteers who manage the HRG.

Bay-Friendly Gardening Basics this Saturday

BFcombo_logo_colorThis is a reminder that I’ll be leading the Bay-Friendly Gardening Basics workshop at the Campbell Community Center this Saturday from 10:00 – 1:00. To register or get a description of the workshop, click here.

Click here for more information on Bay-Friendly Gardening.

Come learn about transitioning your garden using the principles of Bay-Friendly Gardening.

Become a Santa Clara County Master Composter

Become a Santa Clara County Master Composter

Become a Santa Clara County Master Composter

The Master Composter program is a volunteer organization designed to spread the worm about backyard composting in Santa Clara County.  San Jose currently reports 10% of its residents composting at home, which is the most effective way to reduce waste, and benefit local soil, water conservation and stormwater protection.  You can become an agent of change in this process by participating in the Master Composter Volunteer training program.  There is a materials charge of $50 and participants receive training materials and instruction.  After graduation volunteers are required to provide 50 hours of volunteer service in the County.  Volunteers provide all types of support including staffing tables at events, starting school programs teaching classes on composting and worm composting and helping at compost bin sales.  Master Composters also get together each month to share food, successes, and great guest speakers.

Get all the details at www.Reducewaste.org.

What Is Sheet Mulching and Why Use It?

Sheet mulching is a process that causes confusion for people, but it’s really pretty simple. The premiss is to lay down a layer of a light blocking, biodegradable material over an area, then cover this material with an appropriately thick layer of an organic mulch. This provides a clean planting bed and goes a long way to reducing weeds. An example of sheet mulching is probably the easiest way to see how it works.

(Click on any image for a larger version.)

In the beginning

The beginning

I’ll use our house as an example. When we moved into our house a few years ago it had typical landscaping. Most of the front was lawn, and to our eyes, it was also boring. The plants were all common landscape plants and not native to California. It looked so much like every other front yard, during the first few months we lived here, my wife accidentally drove past our house a few times because she had a hard time picking it out from the others.

We didn’t want lawn, for multiple reasons; water use and maintenance being the biggest. Our plan was for California native plants in the front yard to reduce water use, attract birds and provide a look we wanted. The first step we needed to perform was to get rid of the lawn. But how? Sheet mulching was it.

Step 1. Kill the lawn.

Step 1. Kill the lawn.

We knew we were going to plant California native plants and the best time to plant was during the rainy season so to begin the process of losing the lawn we just stopped watering it. We weren’t going to keep it and we were looking to save water anyway so we just turned off the irrigation. That killed off most of the grass leaving nothing to mow down before starting sheet mulching.

There was no need to dig up, pull up or turn over any of the turf. I liked that because it saved lots of work. All the other plants we didn’t want just needed to be cut down. Shrub root balls needed to be removed and I did dig out some of the agapanthus root just to keep them from coming back, but they were a pretty small part of the landscaping so that wasn’t such a big deal. Everything taken from the front yard was chipped up and composted to be put back into the soil.

Step 2. Block the light.

Step 2. Block the light.

The next step was to put down the light blocking barrier. This layer prevents light from getting to any seeds that may germinate. The seed will send up it’s sprout, the leaves won’t find light and the plant will die and decompose back into the soil. This is why sheet mulching keeps any grass that survived from coming back. With no light, the grass runs out of energy and decomposes. There some bulb or rizhomeous plants that may have enough energy to make it through to the surface. These should be pulled or cut as they emerge.

It’s important to use a material for the light blocking layer that itself will decompose into the soil. Newspaper and cardboard are common choices. Not synthetic landscaping fabric! Since we had just moved, we had loads of boxes and the wrapping paper used to keep things from breaking so there was no lack of  material for us. I’ve heard of people going to bike shops to get the big bike boxes because they cover so much area.

When using newspaper, multiple sheets need to be stacked together and it’s a good idea to get it wet so it doesn’t blow around. If any plants were saved in the landscape, the cardboard could have been wet too and it’s pretty easy to just mold the wet material around the base of any existing plants. It’s important to make sure there are no cracks or spaces where light can get in. When using boxes, remember to put something under the slits that form where the creases for the box flaps were cut. As you can see in the picture, I chose to put a bit of compost out over the cardboard, but this is not absolutely necessary.

A clean slate

Step 3. A clean slate

Once all the light blocking material was laid out over the old dead lawn and former planting areas, chipped wood mulch was laid over the whole thing. I wanted to be as reuse oriented as I could, so I got my mulch from Vision Recycling. The product I purchased included chipped up construction debris and materials from demolition sites. It sounded like a great opportunity to return some post consumer material back to the soil, and it’s a relatively cheap mulch product. Bark mulches are more decorative in my opinion, but this gets the job done just as well.

Keep in mind when you’re buying mulch in bulk, you may end up paying more in delivery charges than you did for the material.

Step 4. Ready for Planting

Step 4. Ready for Planting

The mulch was spread in a 3-4″ layer directly over the light blocking material. (A mix of cardboard, newspaper and craft paper.) With the mulch applied, our new front yard was ready for plants. This is usually the part the confuses people the most. Yes, you plant right into the mulch. There are some considerations in plant selection when sheet mulching. Most seeds won’t do well in mulch. If you are looking to plant wildflower seeds, or (gasp) put down a new lawn, you need to use a different mulch material. A mix of compost and native soil is a good idea in those cases.

Our plan was to plant a drought tolerant California native plant garden. Most of the plants were in 1 gallon pots and would transplant well into the mulch. We did need to move mulch and dig into the underlying soil to get the plants to the right planting depth. When digging into the soil below the mulch, all that is necessary is to cut an X into the light blocking material. It’s not necessary to cut out any of the material. We also installed a drip irrigation system that sits below the mulch so it’s not visible when you walk by. The extra pile of mulch in the left of the picture is waiting to be moved into the back yard.

The end (almost)

The end (almost)

A year after planting, the plants are becoming well established. It looks sparse, but the plants keep getting bigger and fill in more and more. This is the end, almost, because plants are continuously being added. It’s not necessary to plant everything at once. We have been trying different plants, and have moved some. We will continue to add plants until the garden looks the way we want. We could have done all the design work up front and planted according to a plan, but our choice here was to fill in the plant pallet over time.

Once our lawn was gone and our California native plant landscape was installed, my wife never drove past our house again. It’s distinctive. There’s no lawn to take care of. It saves water and energy since there’s no green waste to be hauled off to a composting facility. (Of course if there were any, it would get composted on site, but not everyone composts. Yet.) We have created a habitat for local birds and beneficial insects. The garden is also more appealing to us. It looks nicer and the smells of the sages and coyote mint add and extra dimension.

One final but not insignificant benefit, as the mulch decomposes, it helps improve the overall soil condition. I’ve heard many complaints from people about our valley clay soil. How it gets thick and mucky when wet and hard as concrete when dry. Just over a year after sheet mulching our front yard, the soil is much less compacted and absorbs water way better. I made a video of how water infiltrates the soil in our front yard as compared to a neighbor’s house. You can see it here.

Sheet mulching also works in weed infested or neglected areas you’d like to reclaim for a garden. Sheet mulch the area, lay out any irrigation, add plants and you go from blight to garden in a matter of days. If you’d like to get started with a clean slate instead of a lawn, check out our lawn replacement service or get in touch with us and we can do it for you.  If you have a garden you’ve transformed, share your experience with us.

Liberal Green Idiot

When I was Board Chairman of The Bay-Friendly Landscaping and Gardening Coalition, we were contacted by a representative of the Pesticide Applicators Professional Association (PAPA). She was interested in including information on Bay-Friendly Landscaping classes targeted to landscape professionals in the bi-annual seminars they put on to provide continuing education for licensed pesticide applicators. I presented the Bay-Friendly Landscape Maintenance Training and Certification Program the first time in February of 09. I was asked to participate again in May of 09 and agreed even though I’m no longer on the Coalition board.

I didn’t get any comments from the PAPA coordinator after the February presentation, but I did just recently get comments back from the May presentation. The coordinator had some computer problems so it took her a while to get the comments compiled and mailed out. I read through the comments and the second one listed for my presentation stated, “He’s a liberal, green, idiot.”

It’s good to see I’m getting my point across.

Another Reason to Keep Chemicals Out of The Garden

Hiding in the roses.

Hiding in the roses.

The reason’s name is Miele, which is honey in Italian, but we call her Millie because it’s easier to pronounce. She’s a rescue puppy from South Bay Purebred Rescue in San Jose. She’s pure dog, but that’s about as pure as she gets. She’s a funny little puppy with a great personality and lots of energy. She goes everywhere in our yard and picks up anything she finds interesting in her mouth. A good amount of what she picks up winds up in our house. Definitely not an animal I’d want to have around toxic garden chemicals.

You may notice from the pictures in this post, we don’t have what you would consider a regular back yard. Most of our back yard is vegetable garden. When my wife and I bought the house, the yard was pretty traditionally landscaped; lots of lawn, a good amount of concrete and the usual assortment of shrubs. It was also conventionally maintained. Herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizer and overhead spray irrigation.

Mulched paths to help keep weeds down and to keep dog paws a bit cleaner when it rains.

Mulched paths to help keep weeds down and to keep dog paws a bit cleaner when it rains.

The lawn and concrete are all gone now with the exception of bits of grass poking out in a few places. More importantly, the herbicides, pesticides and synthetic fertilizers are gone. Miele runs in the rows between the planting beds, hunts under the growing vegetables and digs in the compost pile. She can do this without us worrying about her. (As long as she doesn’t eat the tomato leaves, but I’ve never met a dog that wanted to. Tomatoes yes. The leaves no.) So far, the most toxic thing she’s managed to put in her mouth are dried garlic scapes. She loves them. Mmmmm. Garlic puppy breath.

Miele seems to like the yard the way it is, as does our beagle, Trouble. Mulch provides endless opportunities for nosing and chewing. We have lots of lizards in the yard and they are a nice distraction. But mainly, there are no toxic substances. Don’t get the idea we don’t have anything growing. In addition to the vegetable beds, there are lots of roses, an assortment of fruit trees and a couple blueberry bushes. All managed through building soil fertility. Not a bad place to be a crazy little dog.

What do you do to keep your pets safe in your yard?

(Click on any picture for a larger version.)

Oh to have the energy of a puppy.

Oh to have the energy of a puppy.

Heritage Rose Garden Sunflower Update

The sunflowers in the Heritage Rose Garden have had a few weeks to mature and the blooms are pretty impressive. Mostly-multi stemmed varieties were used so there are lots of flowers. The sunflower season will end soon and about the same time, the roses will begin their fall bloom.

Shortly after the sunflowers have been removed, soil samples will be taken to measure how well mycorrhizae has colonized the roots of the roses. Mycorrhizae is the one of the two main reasons for planting sunflowers in the Heritage Rose Garden. The other being lessening compaction problems.

If you are ever interested in volunteering at the Heritage Rose Garden, work days are Wednesday and Saturday. Summer hours are 8:00 AM – 11:00 AM. Regular hours are 9:00 – 12:00 noon. Visit the Friends of Guadalupe River Park and Gardens web site for more volunteer information.

Why Are There Weeds?

Gardeners, turf managers, homeowners, farmers and orchardists all talk about the evil of weeds. Every method imaginable is used to get rid of them. Weeds are maligned, vilified and generally disrespected.  Tens of millions of pounds of herbicides are used to ‘control’ weeds every year in the US. Yet, they return. Every square foot of arable land or bare dirt has seeds waiting for the right conditions to sprout. Add to those, wind borne seeds, bird drops and seeds moved around by other animals, and we have to wonder why the planet isn’t completely covered in weeds. But why are there weeds? In the words of Arden Anderson, “Weeds do not exist due to a lack of herbicide in the environment.”. Nor are they there just to annoy us. It’s impossible to get rid of weeds completely and eradication is not a worthy goal, yet we still try. But should we?

First, what is a weed? A common definition is a plant growing where it’s not wanted. This is a pretty limited definition because it would make a tomato plant that sprouts from one of last year’s drops in the garden weed. Another definition classifies weeds as species of plants that grow with a short term life strategy. They sprout quickly, don’t have the strongest growth habits, tend not to live long and produce lots of seeds. Using this definition, many annual flowers would be classified as weeds. Trying to define a weed is similar to the quote attributed to Justice Potter Stewart stating, “I can’t define pornography, but I know it when I see it.”. Weeds tend to be in the eye of the beholder. A golf course superintendent has nightmares about dandelions while a pasture with a good percentage of dandelion means good milk and happy cows for a dairy farmer.

Wildflowers in Yellowstone the spring following the fires in 1988. Photo Jim Peason, NPS.

Wildflowers in Yellowstone the spring following the fires in 1988. Photo Jim Peaco, NPS.

The difficulty in agreeing upon the definition of a weed still doesn’t explain why they exist and there is a need and desire for control. If we look closely, the purpose of many plants we call weeds starts to make sense. In many cases, they are nature’s way of restoring damaged soil or correcting some type of imbalance. When disaster hits a patch of ground, like fire or flood, it’s the weedy plants that come back first. They can survive in the disturbed soil. Some species can thrive with low nutrient or water levels while others break up compacted soil or mine deep into soil for minerals. Good examples of this are what happened after Mount St. Helens erupted in 1980 or the Yellowstone Park fire in 1988. Both of these events left plenty of damaged ground. Shortly after the catastrophic events, plants started growing again. The plants that came first most of us would call weeds. What they were doing was repairing the damaged soil for the next round of plants. Every generation of weeds improved the soil until they were out competed by other plants in the environment. Now in both places, many of the pre-fire species have returned, including the stands of Lodgepole Pine and Douglas Fir.

Lodgepole pines 10 years after 1988 fires (September 1998), north of Madison River. Photo Jim Peaco NPS.

Lodgepole pines 10 years after 1988 fires (September 1998), north of Madison River. Photo Jim Peaco NPS.

There are other events that cause damage to soil. Not all are at the scale of a volcanic eruption or massive fire. Floods, long hot dry summers, droughts, overgrazing, pollution and human activity can damage soil. Soil damage can come in the form of a rototiller, construction equipment, a spray bottle of herbicide or a bag of soluble fertilizer. Each of these can unbalance a soil ecosystem to the point where weeds sprout to correct the problem. Excess nutrient in soil is something natural processes try to prevent. One mechanism for collecting excess nutrient is to have weeds sprout. Weeds take up excess nutrients and convert them into organic material thereby immobilizing the nutrient.

When soil becomes compacted, weeds take notice. Latent seeds sprout and send down long taproots to break up the compaction. When problems arise in soil, the natural system tells seeds to germinate so they can start working on correcting the problems. Many of these problems, we create ourselves.

A better approach to weeds is to consider them indicators of problems not the problem. When you become familiar with the growth habits of weeds, you can start to read them to understand what may be wrong with your soil. Dandelion and plantain have strong taproots that work to break up soil compaction. They may also indicate the lack of a necessary mineral, mine the soil for minerals and leave those minerals at the surface when they die. Bindweed likes excess nitrate in the soil. Nitrate is the form of nitrogen usually found in the highest percentages in soluble fertilizers. Bindweed can also indicate a lack of available phosphorous. Since nature abhors a vacuum, there are always weedy species looking to fill in any bare patches of earth they can find. Killing the weeds does not correct the underlying problem in any of these cases.

Let’s not forget, some weeds are great to eat and some attract beneficial garden insects. Purslane is a member of the spinach family and can be eaten in salads. Milkweed is the main food for Monarch butterflies and weed is even in the plant’s name. Goldenrod provides a pollen and nectar source for parasitic wasps that help control garden pest insects.

The next time you see weeds in your garden or on your lawn, try to understand why they are there. Simply spraying them with a weed killer does not resolve the issue that caused them to sprout in the first place. Using herbicide on weeds can make the underlying problem worse by further disturbing the soil ecosystem, resulting in more weeds and more need for control. By becoming more familiar with weeds, their growth habits, and germination cues, you can begin to understand what your soil may need and you can take a non-toxic and beneficial approach to correcting the problem.